Gardens... should be like lovely, well-shaped girls: all curves, secret corners,
unexpected deviations, seductive surprises and then still more
curves." !!!!!
well placed container adds a highlight as well as a planting opportunity in any garden - big or small, providing punctuation to halt the eye as it scans the view to give structure to the design. Where space is restricted or on a bland expanse of paving a tastefully planted container brings life and contrast. More tender plants can be grown as the planter can be moved under cover in the winter or bulbs and annual plants can be added to areas of perennial plants when they are out of bloom.
Anything the right shape can be used as a planter, so depending on the style of the garden the choice is limitless. In a formal setting it is best to stick to classical shapes in metal, stone, terracotta or an artificial material which resembles these. A cottage style garden is more forgiving and recycled objects can be used, eg. old buckets, sinks, wheelbarrows, or the old standard a half-barrel, even Wellington boots have been used. But don't get carried away, a mass of unrelated objects looks a mess, it is best to choose a theme, eg. a group of old metal watering-cans and buckets. The important thing is to ensure it holds enough planting medium and has drainage holes. (If you choose this style you can claim to be following the Arte Povera movement which was formed in the 1960s by a group of artists who used found objects to create their art - the translation from Italian is "poor art".)
The recent introduction of fibreclay containers give the more authentic look of terracotta or lead, the lighter weight is easier for handling and where weight is a factor on a balcony or a rooftop. Plastic pots do not weather to any extent and although they are lightweight they always look artificial.
Terracotta can be problematic where it is exposed to frost which causes it to shatter. It absorbs moisture and this varies depending on the firing temperature. Lower fired pots are softer and will absorb more so the extra expense of harder, high-fired clay may be worth it in the long run. As a precaution the container can be treated with a water repellent. The large pot in the picture below has spent many years outdoors throughout winter. Before it was placed there it was painted with a couple of coats of a clear, silicone-based product which is normally used to prevent water penetration into brickwork
Size also matters. There is little
point in using a container less than 30cm in diameter as it cannot hold enough
planting medium to retain sufficient moisture for any length of time. The walls
also need to be thick enough to keep the roots cool in hot weather and from
freezing in the cold. Terracotta pots have been found to be best at maintaining
a cooler root-ball in hot weather. In prolonged cold spells the whole container
may have to be lagged to prevent the rootball from being damaged as it is more
exposed than it would be in the ground. For containers with thin walls such as
galvanised steel, the roots can become too hot in the summer or frozen in the
winter. A lining of insulation such as ploystyrene foam or heavy duty
bubble-wrap can be placed against the inner walls prior to filling with planting
medium. Terracotta pots lose moisture through the sides so an inner lining of
plastic will reduce evaporation by this route, glazed ones are more suitable -
if a little less attractive.
well placed container adds a highlight as well as a planting opportunity in any garden - big or small, providing punctuation to halt the eye as it scans the view to give structure to the design. Where space is restricted or on a bland expanse of paving a tastefully planted container brings life and contrast. More tender plants can be grown as the planter can be moved under cover in the winter or bulbs and annual plants can be added to areas of perennial plants when they are out of bloom.
Anything the right shape can be used as a planter, so depending on the style of the garden the choice is limitless. In a formal setting it is best to stick to classical shapes in metal, stone, terracotta or an artificial material which resembles these. A cottage style garden is more forgiving and recycled objects can be used, eg. old buckets, sinks, wheelbarrows, or the old standard a half-barrel, even Wellington boots have been used. But don't get carried away, a mass of unrelated objects looks a mess, it is best to choose a theme, eg. a group of old metal watering-cans and buckets. The important thing is to ensure it holds enough planting medium and has drainage holes. (If you choose this style you can claim to be following the Arte Povera movement which was formed in the 1960s by a group of artists who used found objects to create their art - the translation from Italian is "poor art".)
The recent introduction of fibreclay containers give the more authentic look of terracotta or lead, the lighter weight is easier for handling and where weight is a factor on a balcony or a rooftop. Plastic pots do not weather to any extent and although they are lightweight they always look artificial.
Terracotta can be problematic where it is exposed to frost which causes it to shatter. It absorbs moisture and this varies depending on the firing temperature. Lower fired pots are softer and will absorb more so the extra expense of harder, high-fired clay may be worth it in the long run. As a precaution the container can be treated with a water repellent. The large pot in the picture below has spent many years outdoors throughout winter. Before it was placed there it was painted with a couple of coats of a clear, silicone-based product which is normally used to prevent water penetration into brickwork
The choice of container can have a great bearing on the result. A
plain one would probably be best for a display of flowering plants, otherwise
the two elements will clash. - something like putting floral wallpaper with a
floral sofa on a heavily patterned carpet. A more decorative container looks
better with a single species of a foliage plant, eg. a hosta or a grass, or to
be left unplanted and used sculpturally.
Containers which have a narrower rim than the full width are less
suitable for more permanent planting as it makes re-potting very difficult. To
remove a plant from such a pot, cut down through the rootball inside the rim to
remove the bulbous portion of the roots with an old kitchen knife, or a spade in
larger containers - this may require a hammer to drive it down like a chisel,
hitting the treads.
It may seem obvious, but a large container should be placed in situ before filling as it may be difficult to move when planted up. Also if the chosen plant is in a much smaller pot it should not be placed directly into a large container as this will affect its development. It would be better to pot it on in progressively larger pots to allow the root-ball to extend slowly outwards; placed immediately into a large pot the roots grow to the sides leaving a root-free zone in the middle. The progression of pots can be inserted in the large decorative container surrounded by compost
It may seem obvious, but a large container should be placed in situ before filling as it may be difficult to move when planted up. Also if the chosen plant is in a much smaller pot it should not be placed directly into a large container as this will affect its development. It would be better to pot it on in progressively larger pots to allow the root-ball to extend slowly outwards; placed immediately into a large pot the roots grow to the sides leaving a root-free zone in the middle. The progression of pots can be inserted in the large decorative container surrounded by compost
Growing plants in a container is much different to growing them in
the open ground. The roots are restricted and the growing medium has to provide
everything the plant needs, it cannot seek them out as it would naturally. For
long-term planting a soil based medium is best as it provides stability for the
roots, holds nutrients longer and is easier to re-wet if it should
dry out. Multipurpose compost is more suited to short-term planting, its
nutrients are quickly used up and if it dries out it is difficult to re-wet.
One of the saddest sights is the tree or shrub with a few yellowing leaves sitting in a container stuffed to the brim with ancient multipurpose compost which has a covering of moss. It may be possible to rescue it by extracting the root-ball, scraping away as much of the old compost as possible and any matted roots. Then repot with a loam-based compost, a little extra feed and plenty of water.
One of the saddest sights is the tree or shrub with a few yellowing leaves sitting in a container stuffed to the brim with ancient multipurpose compost which has a covering of moss. It may be possible to rescue it by extracting the root-ball, scraping away as much of the old compost as possible and any matted roots. Then repot with a loam-based compost, a little extra feed and plenty of water.
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| The shape of this urn is unsuitable for planting, but it has enough character to work on its own |
Whatever growing medium is used it should drain easily to avoid
waterlogging, but have enough moisture-retaining material to keep the rootball
from drying out. A loam-based medium made to John Innes Number 3 formula has the right
balance for long-term planting. A mixture of good topsoil, sharp sand and
multipurpose compost with some additional long-acting fertilizer, is a good
alternative and is much cheaper than commercially produced John Innes composts -
a mulch of gravel or bark should keep weeds to
a minimum. Use two large buckets to mix the ingredients, passing the mixture
back-and-forth a number of times until the constituents are evenly
distributed.
Superabsorbent polymer granules made from a special plastic called polyacrylate, bond with water molecules to hold many times their own volume to increase the moisture retention of a growing medium - they are particularly useful in hanging baskets. They are a development from the nappy (diaper) industry where they are used to keep baby dry, whereas gardeners use them to keep their babies wet! The polymers used for nappies last in the soil for about 5 months, but horticultural grade polymers should last for 4 to 5 years so it may be more economical for short term use to disect a nappy and extract the beads - unused of course, although a wet nappy would have additional nutrients!
Superabsorbent polymer granules made from a special plastic called polyacrylate, bond with water molecules to hold many times their own volume to increase the moisture retention of a growing medium - they are particularly useful in hanging baskets. They are a development from the nappy (diaper) industry where they are used to keep baby dry, whereas gardeners use them to keep their babies wet! The polymers used for nappies last in the soil for about 5 months, but horticultural grade polymers should last for 4 to 5 years so it may be more economical for short term use to disect a nappy and extract the beads - unused of course, although a wet nappy would have additional nutrients!
Another drawback is that the plants are more vulnerable to pest
damage. The Vine weevil is a particular problem and it is a good
idea to check for the grubs in the autumn. Succulent rooted plants are their
favourites, eg. Primula, Sedum and Echeveria; if they are
showing signs if dieback or wilting the grubs may be the cause. It is a good
precaution in the late autumn to remove the compost and wash the roots to clean
off any eggs, before re-potting in fresh growing medium. A drench of
*imidacloprid insecticide is the chemical treatment.
Raising the container off the ground is necessary to allow excess
moisture to flow away, when it is in contact with the ground the moisture
becomes trapped. This can rot the roots near to the base and in frosty
conditions a terracotta pot which is saturated may shatter. Three 'feet' are
ideal, as they can cope with uneven surfaces better. There are decorative ones,
but small pieces of terracotta can be placed out of sight underneath the pot.
The drainage holes need to be protected on the inside to prevent the planting
medium from blocking them. Broken terracotta has been the traditional material,
but anything which will not rot away will do; broken up polystyrene foam
packaging such as plant trays are commonly used and have the advantage of being
light. However for a tall plant like a tree some bricks or coarse gravel may be
more suitable to give more stability to the container
Do not fill the container to the brim as this will make watering
difficult. Leave a least 3cm between the surface of the compost and the rim.
This space can be filled with water and it will percolate down around the roots.
If the compost becomes dry it shrinks away from the sides and the water escapes
down the void. Break up the surface to block the space or if possible block the
drainage holes temporarily to hold the water long enough for it to be taken up
by the rootball. A smaller container can be immersed in a large bucket of water
for an hour or so, until the air bubbles stop - it may have to be weighted down
at first and the addition of two drops of detergent to a bucketful of water aids
the rewetting process.
If sited near to the house, a wall or a hedge, the watering requirements can be affected as even during wet weather it may be in a rain shadow under the eaves, or on the lee side so little rain reaches the pot. The roots of a plant reach beyond its canopy when it grows in open ground, but in a pot they cannot, and the leaves can shed most rain water outside the pot.
If sited near to the house, a wall or a hedge, the watering requirements can be affected as even during wet weather it may be in a rain shadow under the eaves, or on the lee side so little rain reaches the pot. The roots of a plant reach beyond its canopy when it grows in open ground, but in a pot they cannot, and the leaves can shed most rain water outside the pot.
A large decorative container need not be planted up directly, a
series of large pots which fit inside it can have different plants which perform
at different times of the year so that there is always something of interest on
show. They can be kept in a 'nursery area' when not on display. The spring show
could be of bulbs such as crocus, hyacinth and daffodils. When these begin to
fade the pot can be replaced with one of tulips. The next in the series can have
annuals. Lilium candidum, the Madonna Lily, has wonderful white trumpet
flowers with a wonderful scent and would make a good choice for the late summer
display.
One pot could have a more permanent display of foliage plants, to fill any periods when there are none in flower. This also suits tender plants which can be taken under cover for the winter while a frost-hardy display replaces it.
One pot could have a more permanent display of foliage plants, to fill any periods when there are none in flower. This also suits tender plants which can be taken under cover for the winter while a frost-hardy display replaces it.
Some plants are better suited to container growing than others.
Those which naturally grow in clumps tend to do better. Perennial plants which
spread out, grow to the sides leaving a dead patch in the middle.
Agapanthus is a good candidate and with fleshy roots it is very tolerant
of dry conditions - also it tends to bloom better with restricted roots. If a
plant is not suited to the soil conditions in the garden a container can be used
to overcome this, eg. using an ericaceous compost to grow an acid-loving plant
in a garden with chalky or alkaline soil .
To have some vegetables in a small garden or to get started on the
pleasures of growing them, a container is ideal. A sowing of mixed salad leaves
makes an easy first step. It is best to have a large pot at least 45cm across
and the same deep to hold enough growing medium. Carrots do quite well and
potatoes can be grown, but need to be planted near the bottom then more compost
is added as the shoots grow. Others to try are 'Gardener's Delight' or 'Tumbler'
tomatoes, raddish and peppers. The main thing to remember is that they need lots
of water and feeding to produce a bumper crop. A container of herbs near to the
back door is handy for nipping out while cooking.
A small tree in a container will need the compost to be
replenished every few years. This can be done in the dormant season. Remove the
rootball and tease away about 3 to 4cm of the outer roots and compost - so
choose a container which is widest at the top. Repot it with fresh growing
medium and water well. This is similar to the treatment of a bonsai tree which
has to have its roots pruned regularly to keep it 'growing' well. A topiarised
box plant is ideal for a container, but it requires regular watering and feeding
to keep it performing well, unfertilised the foliage becomes yellow and
sparse.
Feeding the plants in the container is important,
particularly if a multipurpose compost has been used - the fertilizer in these
mixes only lasts for a few months so needs to be replenished. As a general
long-lasting feed the coated pellets such as Osmocote contain roughly equal
proportions of the three major nutrients - Nitrogen (N), Phosphate (P) and
Potassium (K). For a flower display use a feed higher in Potassium (sometimes
called Potash). The organic alternate is bonemeal. The use of too much
fertilizer can cause a build-up of harmful salts which reverse the osmotic flow
and the roots are unable to take up water.
There is a vast range of containers available and they can be used in a number
of ways around the garden. Also the number of plants which can be grown in them
is large as well, from annuals, perennials, shrubs and trees to vegetables and
salads. The container can be used unplanted as a decotative object in its own
right, or even sealed and made into a water feature. So whatever the situation
there is no excuse for not having one, or preferably more, in the garden. But do
not get carried away, too many pots can look untidy, try to limit the number to
one, or a neat group per vista
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| This replica amphora adds interest even in winter when the perennials are 'resting' |
