How To Plant Bush Green Beans !!!!

Many people that are new to vegetable gardening may be wondering what are bush green beans. Bush green beans are also commonly referred to as green beans, string beans, or snap beans. There are typically two types of green beans most vegetable gardeners grow – pole beans, which grow as a climbing vine, and bush beans, which grow as a bush.
Bush green beans grow different than pole beans because bush beans grow as a bush and are generally grown in rows, similar to butter beans. Planting bush beans is really not much different than planting pole beans. They both require similar planting depths, but the spacing is a bit different
Here is how I plant bush green beans.
Preparing The Bush Green Bean Seeds
Just like pole beans, bush green beans should be soaked in a shallow container with warm water over night to speed up the germination process. The bush bean seeds will swell up as they soak up some of the water. Once the seeds have soaked overnight, drain out the water. The bush green bean seeds are now ready to be planted.
Here is how I plant bush green beans.

Preparing The Bush Green Bean Seeds!!!!!

Just like pole beans, bush green beans should be soaked in a shallow container with warm water over night to speed up the germination process. The bush bean seeds will swell up as they soak up some of the water. Once the seeds have soaked overnight, drain out the water. The bush green bean seeds are now ready to be planted.

You may find some seeds that have split apart or are broken. Just add these to the compost pile or discard. Don’t try to plant them because they probably will not germinate.

Preparing The Garden Row or Garden Bed For Planting !!!!

Bush green beans should be grown in fertile soil amended with good compost or organic matter and have adequate drainage. I will be growing my bush beans in a row this year. For planting in rows, bush beans need to be spaced about eight to twelve inches apart

Planting The Bush Green Bean Seeds!!!!

First, place two bush green bean seeds at eight inch intervals down the center of the entire row. Just place the seeds on top of the soil for now. Continue placing the bush bean seeds on top of the soil at eight inch intervals until you run out of seeds or run out of row; whichever comes first.

Bush bean seeds typically need to be planted at a depth of 1-1/2 inches deep. Make sure to read the seed packet for the planting depth of your particular bush beans. Here I am planting 'Early Contender' bush beans.

Bean, Contender Bush
Great bean flavor.
A heavy cropper of round-oval pods with strong,distinctive flavor. One of the best bush beans ever. Ready to harvest in 55 days.
Product Details
Days to Maturity: 55  days
Sun: Full Sun 
Spread: 18-30  inches
Sowing Method: Direct Sow 
  

Days to pick the first ripe fruit from the time the plant is transplanted in the garden.

 The Hole Method of Planting Bush Green Beans!!!!

To plant the seeds, I simply take my index finger and poke a hole in the soil 1-1/2 inch deep right beside the bush green bean seeds I placed on top of the soil. By poking the hole right beside the seeds, the seeds will just fall right in the hole on their own

Once the seeds fall into the hole, use your finger to gently tap the seeds in the hole to make sure they seat properly in the soil. Avoid pushing the seeds deeper into the soil, just make sure the seeds are seated in the soil. This is to make sure the seeds come in good contact with the soil for proper growth after the seeds germinate.

Now simply cover the hole with soil and give it a light pat with the palm of your hand. Again, do not pat too hard as this is to just make sure the seed contacts the soil well.

Continue this process until all the seeds have been planted along the row.

The Push Method of Planting Bush Green Beans!!!!

Another method for planting bush beans is to simply use your index and middle fingers to push the bush beans seeds down into the soil to plant them. Simply take those two fingers and place them on top of the seeds. Gently push the seeds down into the soil until you get to the second knuckle of your fingers. This is typically about an inch and a half deep

Once you have the bush bean seeds at the proper depth, simply cover the hole with soil and gently pat with the palm of your hand. Continue this method for all of the bush bean seeds along the row until finished

Water The Bush Green Bean Seeds!!!

Once all of the bush green bean seeds are planted, give the entire row or bed a drink of water or compost tea. Thoroughly water them each day to keep them consistently moist but not soggy. The bush green bean seedlings should emerge in six to fourteen days. After the seedlings have reached about three inches high, thin them out so there is one plant every eight inches.

 

 

What is Organic Gardening - The Basics for Gardening Organically

Question: What is Organic Gardening - The Basics for Gardening Organically?

What does it mean to have an organic garden? Does organic gardening mean you have to put up with insects eating your plants or unattractive flower beds? 

Answer: The short answer is that organic gardening means not using synthetic products, including pesticides and fertilizers. Ideally, organic gardening replenishes the resources as it makes use of them. Like feeding depleted soil with composted plants, or planting legumes to add nitrogen to an area that had been planted with heavy feeder. The bigger picture involves working in cooperation with nature, viewing your garden as a small part of all the natural system.

Here are some basics to get you started with organic gardening:

What is Meant by Organic Matter?

Organic matter is decaying plant and animal waste. It includes everything from compost, grass clipping, dried leaves and kitchen scraps to manures and fish heads. Organic matter is used as a soil amendment or conditioner. It can be worked into the soil of a new garden or used as a top dressing or mulch in an existing garden.

What's so Important About the Soil?

One of the basic tenants of organic gardening is to "Feed the soil and the soil will feed the plants". It's really common sense. Plants get water, air and nutrients from the soil. Clay soil is higher in nutrients than sand and hold water better. Sometimes it holds water too well and the plants can't get enough air. Sandy soil is well drained, but can use some amending to make it great garden soil. This is where organic matter comes into play. Adding organic matter improves any soil's texture as well as attracting soil organisms that create nutrients in the soil.

How Do You Control Pests and Diseases without Chemicals?

Organic gardening doesn't mean you have to share your apples with the worms, but you will probably have less than pristine looking plants and produce. Since you are trying to garden in cooperation with nature, sometimes you have to accept the occasional pest in the garden. Your first line of defense should be vigilance. Inspect your plants regularly for signs of a problem and take action quickly. Keep in mind that not every insect is a foe and that action doesn't necessarily mean pesticide.

• There are many organic pesticides available, but first make certain that there is a problem and that you know what it is. You can live with a little damage. Some insects, like the 4-lined plant bug, do their damage and then move on for the season.
• Consider if you are having a pest problem because your plants are stressed and don't have the resources to defend themselves.
• Interplanting and diversity will protect you from losing an entire crop to an infestation. Large swaths of a single plant are pretty, but are also a landing strip for interested insects.
• Many insects and larger animals are considered beneficial, preying on the insect pests. Reaching for the spray can every time you see a pest, you will be killing of the beneficials too. Lady bugs and parasitic wasps enjoy an aphid banquet. Birds will munch on grubs. Frogs, lizards and even snakes all contribute to the balance in your garden and prevent a pest population from becoming a problem.
  
• Barriers prevent problems. Floating row covers prevent moths from landing and laying eggs. Yellow sticky traps can easily catch dozens of flying pests. Foil collars around the base of plants will foil cut worms and many borers.
• There will probably come a time when you will need to apply a pesticide or lose your plants. Organic or natural pesticides can be very effective and are usually less toxic to wildlife, pets and humans than synthetic pesticides. Many organic controls can target specific problems, such as using Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), a type of bacteria, that kills caterpillars, but not much else. Just be sure that you know what the problem is before you treat it and that you always follow the label instructions.

What Else Is Involved in Gardening Cooperatively with Nature?

There are many elements that can contribute to a healthy garden climate.

• Select plants that are suited to your site conditions. Plants that are happy with their growing conditions will be healthier than plants that are stressed. Stressed plants are very attractive to pests. Don't choose plants that require full sun if you live in a shady woodland. Similarly, don't select plants that like a moist environment if you have sandy soil and lots of sunshine.
• Mulching your garden beds serves multiple purposes. Mulch suppresses weeds, conserves water, moderates soil temperature, feeds the soil, prevents erosion and is attractive to boot.
• As mentioned above, create diversity in your garden. A mix of plants will attract more beneficial insects and prevent a problem from spreading throughout your garden.
• Most importantly, get to know your plants so that you will notice if a problem is manifesting Nature is cyclical and learning the seasonal changes your plant will go through can help you anticipate problems. Organic gardening is a constantly evolving dance that allows you to be a full participant in your garden.

Synthetic and Organic Chemicals

Learn the differences between synthetic and organic chemicals!!!!

Millions of gardeners distinguish between synthetic and natural products by calling the former chemicals and the latter organics. The truth is they're all chemicals.The difference is that synthetic chemicals are man-made, whereas organic chemicals are derived from natural sources. As a result, most people think that all synthetic chemicals are toxic, and all organic chemicals are safe

In fact, there are organic chemicals that are every bit as dangerous as synthetic chemicals, yet people who use them assume – often incorrectly – that because something is labeled organic it must therefore be safe!!!

• Regardless of which type of chemical you choose to use, make sure you read the product label carefully and follow the instructions. Don't assume that if two tablespoons per gallon is called for, then four tablespoons must be twice as good. It doesn’t work that way, and the results of using such a mixture can be dangerous to you and your plants.
  
• Don't combine chemicals. In other words, don't mix an insecticide with an herbicide in an attempt to destroy both insects and weeds in one fell swoop. Certain chemical combinations can be dangerous.
  
• Understand what the chemicals do. A number of organic chemicals are just as non-selective or indiscriminate as their synthetic counterparts. For example, Bacillus thuringiensis, or BT, the popular bacterial pesticide that controls caterpillars, doesn't distinguish between the larval form of the destructive cabbage looper and the monarch butterfly. It kills them both. The same is true of garlic oil, a popular organic insecticide that is equally effective against both pests and beneficial insects.
  
• Whether you use synthetic or organic chemicals in your landscape, take physical precautions. Wear a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, gloves, and perhaps even a mask. And when you've finished spraying or dusting, wash your hands thoroughly.

• solution!!!!

  Synthetic Chemicals, Compost and Your Soil

  To have healthy soil, ditch the synthetic fertilizers and bring on the compost.

• 
  The secret to successful gardening is healthy soil. In a single tablespoon of healthy soil, there are literally billions of organisms — from protozoa and nematodes to bacteria and fungi — that together form interdependent food chains.
  In other words, the soil itself is a living organism, and it needs to be treated as such. But every year many gardeners destroy the vital soil food web by using synthetic chemicals, specifically synthetic fertilizers.
  The frequent use of synthetic fertilizers leads to an accumulation of soluble salts, and those salts are toxic to the organisms of the soil food web. That leads to a variety of problems, including decreased soil fertility, a lack of vigor, lower yields, reduced flowering and greater susceptibility to pests and diseases.
  So if you've been relying on synthetic fertilizers, consider making the switch to organic products, and use the one thing that can keep your soil healthy: compost. Compost teems with all the organisms that make up the soil food web. When applied routinely to the soil, whether around the base of plants or spread evenly over an entire garden bed, compost makes soil come alive. And in the process, it creates conditions that lead to healthier, happier plants with amazing vigor and the ability to ward off pests and diseases
  

• 
  
  
  

The Right Way to Plant a Tree

Plant Properly!!!!!

You can plant trees the easy way -- just dig a hole and drop it in -- but your big investment may not make it through the spring or summer if you don’t get it right the first time

For a tree that will last, plant it properly

For a tree that will last, plant it properly

Tree Selection !!!!!

Do some homework and pick the right tree for the location you've selected.

 

The type of tree you choose should be based on the attributes of the location and what functions you want the tree to serve. Remember that a tree is a long-term investment. Consider these factors before you plant:
Size
Privacy
Shade
Color
Fruiting
When selecting a tree at the nursery, here are some things to look for:
Does the tree have desirable branch angles?
Are there dead or dormant branches?
Is the sapling the appropriate size for the container it's in?
Is the tree root-bound? Carefully remove the tree from its container (or ask your nurseryman to help you) and check the condition of the roots. Look for evidence of "girdling." Roots circling around the perimeter of the container, surrounding the trunk, can eventually choke and kill the tree.
Location for Planting
Plant the right tree in the right location to save yourself unforeseen trouble down the road. Trees grow large--up and out. Know your needs. Are you planting near the driveway, pool or another tree? All are important considerations since trees shed leaves, branches, fruit or seeds, etc. Root invasion (such as into underground pipes) can cause costly damage to your property and shorten the life of a tree.

Planting Technique !!!!!

Here are the basics steps for planting your tree "pedestal style" as shown in the demonstration.

Before you dig, make sure that the spot you've chosen for your tree does not have any underground lines that would endanger you while planting.
A common mistake when planting a tree is to simply dig a large hole and add amended soil into the hole. This tends to cause a "container effect" on the tree's roots as they grow to the edge of the amended soil then begin girdling around the perimeter of the space. This can ultimately lead to the tree falling over in a high wind because the tree hasn't been able to properly anchor itself with its roots. A better technique is to break up or cultivate the soil in a circular area around the location where the tree is to be planted. First, dig a whole that's the depth and diameter of the plant's container. Remove and discard grass and weeds from the planting site. Then break up and the soil around the hole so that it's loose.

Loosen the Root Ball!!!!

Prepare the root ball for planting

With the hole dug and the soil around the hole thoroughly cultivated, carefully remove the tree's root ball from its container, and using your hands, gently loosen any outside roots from the sides and bottom, taking care not to break or damage the root ball

Place the Tree!!!!!

Place the root ball in the center of the hole.

Place the tree in the center of the hole on the undisturbed pedestal so the root crown (where the trunk meets the roots) is about 1-1/2 to 2 inches above the surrounding ground level.

Remove the Stakes!!!!!

 If your tree came tied to a nursery stake, remove the stake.

If your tree came tied to a nursery stake, remove the stake. Another common mistake, according to Beeler, is over-staking trees. If your tree is sturdy enough to hold itself upright, do not re-stake it. If the tree needs help to stand upright, use two stakes and ties. Place the stakes on opposite sides of the tree, planted outside the area you just cultivated, approximately 18 inches from the trunk. Place tree tape loosely around the trunk and attached to the stakes with ties. The ties should be loose enough to allow the tree to move back and forth slightly in high wind.
Backfill the hole with the soil you removed. Discard any grass and weeds from the soil. Do not add soil amendments.

Finishing Touches!!!!

Finish backfilling the hole, but remember not to cover the top of the root ball, which is the root crown stake.

Create a circular berm around the base of the tree to help contain water and channel it to the tree's roots.
Water thoroughly right after planting, soaking the planting area. This will help get the roots established and settle the soil
Spread mulch or wood chips about 6 inches deep over the entire planting area, leaving a bare 4- to 6-inch area directly around the trunk.
If you did have to stake your tree, periodically check the stakes and ties to ensure that they are not harming the trunk or branches. The tree should be able to stand on its own after one year.
Tree Survival Tips: What to Avoid
Here are two of the more common situations that cause newly planted tree saplings not to survive--and tips for avoiding each problem.
Drowning. Check root moisture for newly planted trees. Don't be fooled by surface soil conditions: check the soil 4 to 6 inches deep. The soil should be moist, not soggy. One effective means for watering, and one which wastes less water than using sprinklers, is to place the end of hose against the trunk and let the water drip all day or night.
Suffocation. Avoid planting too deeply. The root crown (where trunk meets the roots) should be 1-1/2 inches to 2 inches above ground level.

No-Frills Composting!!!!!

Howto turn garden waste into gold.!!!!

Finished compost is the best soil enricher — and it's easy to make

When you pile organic material and let it sit for a little while, the rotting process turns those scraps into compost. Finished compost is the best thing in the world for anything that grows. When you lay it on the soil surface, you're feeding the soil (rather than the plant). The soil will drain better, and the compost will attract earthworms and microbial activity in the soil. And with the wealth of nutrients in compost, you can skip using fertilizers altogether if you routinely apply compost.

Maria originally placed her compost pile under a shady tree. Unfortunately, the roots will suck the nutrients right out of her pile, so Paul suggests moving it out into the sun, several yards from vegetation.
To contain the pile requires nothing more than a wire cage with enough area to generate sufficient heat — at least a 3' x 3' cage.
Broken twigs make for a good base. The coarse material allows air flow and drainage at the bottom of the pile.

Next come the leaves. Over time they produce what's called leaf mold, which helps break down plant tissue into compost. A mix of green and brown materials is best. Brown is dry, carbon-rich trimmings like old leaves and twigs. Greens is nitrogen-rich debris like grass clippings and annuals.

This lump of new, coarse material will take a while to decompose, but there's a trick to speeding the process — blood meal. A cup or so accelerates decomposition. An alternative to blood meal is finished compost, which already has the bacteria and micro-organisms that help a compost pile get started.

It's also important to sprinkle water onto the pile, enabling microorganisms to do their thing. Not too much, though: The pile should be about as moist as a wrung-out sponge.

Building the compost over time means repeating the whole process — add material, then a little blood meal, then water.

 step above the wire cage is the self-contained compost bin. A lid helps contain the materials, and a door on the bottom of the bin comes in handy when the compost is ready to be used. Expect usable compost from a bin like this in two to three months.

Another high-end compost option is the tumbler. It's designed in such a way that you turn it every day, which helps generate compost more quickly.

Arguably the best thing in the world for compost piles are kitchen scraps. They contain all kinds of great nutrients that will break down. The only things you want to keep out of the pile are fatty foods and meats, which attract rodents.

Assembling a Compost Bin!!!!

The bin itself is a simple structure consisting of metal corner posts onto which you attach boards. The boards are ideally made of rot-resistant lumber, such as cedar or redwood. You could also use spruce or pine, but in that case, you should treat the boards with a non-toxic preservative. The boards are angled inward, which helps funnel the rain into the bin, and there's sufficient space between them to allow for good air flow.
The dimensions of the bin are ideal. Unless a bin is large enough, it won't generate enough heat to drive decomposition. The manufacturer recommends that the bin be 4 feet square, but Paul decided to make his a little bit bigger, as in 5 feet by 4 feet.

Assembling the bin is easy. The boards simply slide into the posts and are attached using the supplied screws. The top three boards at the front of the bin are not attached, however, so that you can easily remove them to access the interior of the bin. Start to finish, Paul put this bin together in just 30 minutes by using a cordless power drill.
Finding the right spot
Deciding on a location for a compost bin can be challenging. First and foremost, a compost bin needs to be conveniently located or you'll never use it. It also needs to be clear of trees, whose roots will invade the rich material and suck the nutrients right out of it. Placing the bin near a water source is a good idea as well, because periodically you'll need to give it a shot of moisture. Finally, it needs to be in a spot that gets at least a half day of sun or it won't heat up properly.
After examining his two acres for a good spot, Paul realizes that he doesn't have a single location that fits all those criteria. So he must compromise on a spot that's convenient, is near water and gets a good deal of sun. Unfortunately, there's also a large tree nearby, but that's okay because he ultimately plans on having the tree removed to make room for a new greenhouse.

Establishing the compost pile
Once the location for the compost bin has been determined, it's time to get rid of the grass. A compost pile or bin needs to sit on bare soil so that soil organisms, like earthworms, below can work their way into the pile and do their magic.
When the grass has been removed, place the bin on the ground and begin filling it. Paul begins with a small bale of straw, followed by a mix of leaves, old potting mix, grass clippings and other organic matter that he has collected over the past few weeks.

Then he activates the pile with a shovel full of compost. Remember, compost should contain a mix of carbon-based materials — best thought of as brown stuff, such as straw and leaves — and nitrogen-based materials, or the green stuff, such as grass clippings and kitchen scraps.
In his case, Paul has more brown stuff than green stuff, so he sprinkles the pile with blood meal, which is pure nitrogen, just to balance things out a bit. Then he adds water to get the right moisture content — not too wet, but definitely not too dry, either — and fluffs the pile with a fork. Now he is ready to add more things to the compost pile

Cold frame
A cold frame allows Paul to get a jump on spring planting and extend his growing season into the fall and winter. In summer he replaces the clear poly film with shade cloth to protect plants from the blazing sun.
He bought two of these frames, and they were fairly easy to install. The kit, which is designed to fit a 4' x 8' bed, comes complete with galvanized steel stakes, rafter pipes, poly film and all of the necessary hardware.

All you do is drive the tapered end of the stakes into the ground with a hammer. Then join two sections of pipe together, and slide their ends into the stakes. Next, lay the poly film over the sections of pipe and attach it using the special clips provided.
Inside the cold frame, fall veggies will be protected even when the ambient air temperatures drop to about 25 degrees F. During warm spells in the fall season, roll up the poly film on the sides of the cold frame and attach it with tape to allow more air flow through the frame and prevent the veggies from cooking inside.

In winter, once the veggie harvest is over, he'll use these cold frames to house his bonsai collection. To do this, he'll place the bonsai in the beds and cover them with pine bark mulch or shredded leaves up to the tops of the pots. Then, when warmer temperatures arrive, in about late February or so, he'll remove the bonsai and get ready to plant more veggies. In the spring, he'll be able to get at least a two-week head start on the growing season

How to Plant a Kitchen Herb Garden

Have some extra space in your yard or garden? Plant a fresh and simple herb garden only steps away from the kitchen!!!

Suggested Herbs

basil ('Purple Ruffles' or 'Dani')
sage
oregano
common thyme
sweet marjoram
lavender
rosemary
parsley
chives
cilantro

Pick a Location

Pick the location for your herb garden. An ideal location would be a few steps from your kitchen, but any spot that gets about six hours of sun a day is good. If you have space in front of a kitchen window, plant the herbs in small containers for an indoor garden

Prepare the Area for Planting

Prepare the area for planting by loosening the soil. If the soil is compacted or consists of heavy clay, improve drainage by adding some compost, peat moss or coarse sand. Work the material into the top foot of soil before you plant. Tip: Plant early in the morning or late in the afternoon to prevent the transplants from wilting in the midday sun

Dig Planting Holes

Because you are starting herbs from bedding plants and not seeds, you will need to create larger planting holes. Dig each hole to about twice the width of the root ball of the new plant.

Add Plants to Soil

Space the bedding plants about 18 inches apart to give them room to spread out and grow. Tip: Place taller herbs, like sage, rosemary and marjoram, toward the back of the garden, and place parsley and cilantro at the front.

Label Herb

Add labels to each of your freshly planted herbs to make them easy to identify when cooking.

Surround With Flowering Plants

For accents of color in your herb garden, add flowering plants like zinnias and salvia. Tip: Plant perennials on one side and annuals on the other for easier replanting next year.

Water Regularly

Give the new transplants plenty of water. Once established, make sure your herbs get an inch of water each week throughout the growing season

Harvest Mature Herbs

Begin harvesting from the herbs as soon as they are mature, but take only a little bit each time you harvest. If you remove more than a third of the plant at one time, it takes longer to recover and produce new foliage. To promote branching, keep the tops of the plants pinched back in early summer. With judicious picking, most herbs can be harvested for several months. Tip: Fresh herbs taste best when harvested in the morning. Also, herbs are most flavorful if harvested before they bloom

How to Use Annuals for Color Next to a Fence or Walkway

Plant taller in the back and shorter in the front to provide shade and visual interest in an annual garden next to a walkway or fence!!!!

Highlights:

• Step 1: Go with Color
• Step 2: Check the Roots
• Step 3: Spade the Soil and Add Compost
• Step 4: Arrange the Plants
• Step 5: Dig Deep
• Step 6: Water While and After Planting
• Step 7: Make Color Last
• Step 8: Give Good Nutrients
• Step 9: Water after Fertilizing
• Step 10: Add Pots

Step 1: Go with Color

Choose brightly colored annuals. Violas are almost always a good option since they will thrive in almost any U.S. climate. One of the ways professional garden designers boost the intensity of their plantings is by grouping colors together in large masses. Remember that colors lose impact if they're spread far apart.

Step 2: Check the Roots

Before you buy annuals, be sure to check the condition of the roots. if you find individual or fleshy roots around the outside of the root-ball, don't buy the plant. By comparison, a younger plant's root-

Step 3: Spade the Soil and Add Compost

Properly prepare the soil by spading the entire plot. We recommend a spading fork rather than a shovel. Add 3" to 4" of compost to the plot. Mix in the compost with the soil and rake smooth.

Step 4: Arrange the Plants

Position your plants before planting to determine the desired layout. Always plant from back to front to avoid having to walk over plantings. Space plants tightly, nearly root ball to root ball. This is usually an unorthodox approach, but annuals don't live long enough for their growth to be a concern. Tight spacing also allows for one plant to die without leaving a noticeable gap. Offset the rows of plants to avoid any appearance of a grid design. The design should be natural and flowing.
ball is still mostly dirt.

 

Step 5: Dig Deep

Be sure to dig a deep enough hole so that the entire root ball is covered

Step 6: Water While and After Planting

Be sure to water the entire bed after planting. If you notice any wilting before you've finished planting, stop and water that section. If you are watering during the day, take care to avoid getting water on the foliage. Water on foliage with the sun shining can act like a magnifying glass and damage plants

Step 7: Make Color Last

The key to long-lasting beauty in annuals is the prevention of seed production. When a plant starts producing seeds, it slows its metabolism, quits blooming and even dies. For example, after an annual like this marigold has bloomed (Image 1), the bloom fades (Image 2) and then dries out (Image 3). If the flower reaches this final stage, the plant will react as if the season is over and it will begin seed production. To prevent this natural process from occurring and to keep the plant blooming, check your plants every day and clip off any faded blooms. This simple step will pay enormous dividends in maintaining the color of your plantings for as long as possible

Step 8: Give Good Nutrients

The key to keeping annuals healthy and in bloom is consistent nutrition. Fertilize with half of the manufacturer's recommended dosage, but doing so twice as often. Fertilizing generously and regularly gives annuals a stable diet, encourages more consistent blooms and will keep this finished project looking beautiful. Make sure to thoroughly mix the water and fertilizer so that the fertilizer doesn't simply settle at the bottom of your watering can.

Step 9: Water after Fertilizing

Water the bed after fertilizing so that the nutrients are sent deep into the root zone. This technique will make any fertilizer you use more effective. You should fertilize your annuals every two weeks.

Step 10: Add Pots

Adding potted plants can gave your bed more visual interest. Think of pots as pieces of art, the equivalent of adding the right sculpture or painting to a room. For example, cobalt blue pots provide will contrast within the layout and help accent the beauty of the plantings