What is Organic Gardening - The Basics for Gardening Organically

Question: What is Organic Gardening - The Basics for Gardening Organically?

What does it mean to have an organic garden? Does organic gardening mean you have to put up with insects eating your plants or unattractive flower beds? 

Answer: The short answer is that organic gardening means not using synthetic products, including pesticides and fertilizers. Ideally, organic gardening replenishes the resources as it makes use of them. Like feeding depleted soil with composted plants, or planting legumes to add nitrogen to an area that had been planted with heavy feeder. The bigger picture involves working in cooperation with nature, viewing your garden as a small part of all the natural system.

Here are some basics to get you started with organic gardening:

What is Meant by Organic Matter?

Organic matter is decaying plant and animal waste. It includes everything from compost, grass clipping, dried leaves and kitchen scraps to manures and fish heads. Organic matter is used as a soil amendment or conditioner. It can be worked into the soil of a new garden or used as a top dressing or mulch in an existing garden.

What's so Important About the Soil?

One of the basic tenants of organic gardening is to "Feed the soil and the soil will feed the plants". It's really common sense. Plants get water, air and nutrients from the soil. Clay soil is higher in nutrients than sand and hold water better. Sometimes it holds water too well and the plants can't get enough air. Sandy soil is well drained, but can use some amending to make it great garden soil. This is where organic matter comes into play. Adding organic matter improves any soil's texture as well as attracting soil organisms that create nutrients in the soil.

How Do You Control Pests and Diseases without Chemicals?

Organic gardening doesn't mean you have to share your apples with the worms, but you will probably have less than pristine looking plants and produce. Since you are trying to garden in cooperation with nature, sometimes you have to accept the occasional pest in the garden. Your first line of defense should be vigilance. Inspect your plants regularly for signs of a problem and take action quickly. Keep in mind that not every insect is a foe and that action doesn't necessarily mean pesticide.

• There are many organic pesticides available, but first make certain that there is a problem and that you know what it is. You can live with a little damage. Some insects, like the 4-lined plant bug, do their damage and then move on for the season.
• Consider if you are having a pest problem because your plants are stressed and don't have the resources to defend themselves.
• Interplanting and diversity will protect you from losing an entire crop to an infestation. Large swaths of a single plant are pretty, but are also a landing strip for interested insects.
• Many insects and larger animals are considered beneficial, preying on the insect pests. Reaching for the spray can every time you see a pest, you will be killing of the beneficials too. Lady bugs and parasitic wasps enjoy an aphid banquet. Birds will munch on grubs. Frogs, lizards and even snakes all contribute to the balance in your garden and prevent a pest population from becoming a problem.
  
• Barriers prevent problems. Floating row covers prevent moths from landing and laying eggs. Yellow sticky traps can easily catch dozens of flying pests. Foil collars around the base of plants will foil cut worms and many borers.
• There will probably come a time when you will need to apply a pesticide or lose your plants. Organic or natural pesticides can be very effective and are usually less toxic to wildlife, pets and humans than synthetic pesticides. Many organic controls can target specific problems, such as using Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), a type of bacteria, that kills caterpillars, but not much else. Just be sure that you know what the problem is before you treat it and that you always follow the label instructions.

What Else Is Involved in Gardening Cooperatively with Nature?

There are many elements that can contribute to a healthy garden climate.

• Select plants that are suited to your site conditions. Plants that are happy with their growing conditions will be healthier than plants that are stressed. Stressed plants are very attractive to pests. Don't choose plants that require full sun if you live in a shady woodland. Similarly, don't select plants that like a moist environment if you have sandy soil and lots of sunshine.
• Mulching your garden beds serves multiple purposes. Mulch suppresses weeds, conserves water, moderates soil temperature, feeds the soil, prevents erosion and is attractive to boot.
• As mentioned above, create diversity in your garden. A mix of plants will attract more beneficial insects and prevent a problem from spreading throughout your garden.
• Most importantly, get to know your plants so that you will notice if a problem is manifesting Nature is cyclical and learning the seasonal changes your plant will go through can help you anticipate problems. Organic gardening is a constantly evolving dance that allows you to be a full participant in your garden.

Synthetic and Organic Chemicals

Learn the differences between synthetic and organic chemicals!!!!

Millions of gardeners distinguish between synthetic and natural products by calling the former chemicals and the latter organics. The truth is they're all chemicals.The difference is that synthetic chemicals are man-made, whereas organic chemicals are derived from natural sources. As a result, most people think that all synthetic chemicals are toxic, and all organic chemicals are safe

In fact, there are organic chemicals that are every bit as dangerous as synthetic chemicals, yet people who use them assume – often incorrectly – that because something is labeled organic it must therefore be safe!!!

• Regardless of which type of chemical you choose to use, make sure you read the product label carefully and follow the instructions. Don't assume that if two tablespoons per gallon is called for, then four tablespoons must be twice as good. It doesn’t work that way, and the results of using such a mixture can be dangerous to you and your plants.
  
• Don't combine chemicals. In other words, don't mix an insecticide with an herbicide in an attempt to destroy both insects and weeds in one fell swoop. Certain chemical combinations can be dangerous.
  
• Understand what the chemicals do. A number of organic chemicals are just as non-selective or indiscriminate as their synthetic counterparts. For example, Bacillus thuringiensis, or BT, the popular bacterial pesticide that controls caterpillars, doesn't distinguish between the larval form of the destructive cabbage looper and the monarch butterfly. It kills them both. The same is true of garlic oil, a popular organic insecticide that is equally effective against both pests and beneficial insects.
  
• Whether you use synthetic or organic chemicals in your landscape, take physical precautions. Wear a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, gloves, and perhaps even a mask. And when you've finished spraying or dusting, wash your hands thoroughly.

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  Synthetic Chemicals, Compost and Your Soil

  To have healthy soil, ditch the synthetic fertilizers and bring on the compost.

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  The secret to successful gardening is healthy soil. In a single tablespoon of healthy soil, there are literally billions of organisms — from protozoa and nematodes to bacteria and fungi — that together form interdependent food chains.
  In other words, the soil itself is a living organism, and it needs to be treated as such. But every year many gardeners destroy the vital soil food web by using synthetic chemicals, specifically synthetic fertilizers.
  The frequent use of synthetic fertilizers leads to an accumulation of soluble salts, and those salts are toxic to the organisms of the soil food web. That leads to a variety of problems, including decreased soil fertility, a lack of vigor, lower yields, reduced flowering and greater susceptibility to pests and diseases.
  So if you've been relying on synthetic fertilizers, consider making the switch to organic products, and use the one thing that can keep your soil healthy: compost. Compost teems with all the organisms that make up the soil food web. When applied routinely to the soil, whether around the base of plants or spread evenly over an entire garden bed, compost makes soil come alive. And in the process, it creates conditions that lead to healthier, happier plants with amazing vigor and the ability to ward off pests and diseases
  

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The Right Way to Plant a Tree

Plant Properly!!!!!

You can plant trees the easy way -- just dig a hole and drop it in -- but your big investment may not make it through the spring or summer if you don’t get it right the first time

For a tree that will last, plant it properly

For a tree that will last, plant it properly

Tree Selection !!!!!

Do some homework and pick the right tree for the location you've selected.

 

The type of tree you choose should be based on the attributes of the location and what functions you want the tree to serve. Remember that a tree is a long-term investment. Consider these factors before you plant:
Size
Privacy
Shade
Color
Fruiting
When selecting a tree at the nursery, here are some things to look for:
Does the tree have desirable branch angles?
Are there dead or dormant branches?
Is the sapling the appropriate size for the container it's in?
Is the tree root-bound? Carefully remove the tree from its container (or ask your nurseryman to help you) and check the condition of the roots. Look for evidence of "girdling." Roots circling around the perimeter of the container, surrounding the trunk, can eventually choke and kill the tree.
Location for Planting
Plant the right tree in the right location to save yourself unforeseen trouble down the road. Trees grow large--up and out. Know your needs. Are you planting near the driveway, pool or another tree? All are important considerations since trees shed leaves, branches, fruit or seeds, etc. Root invasion (such as into underground pipes) can cause costly damage to your property and shorten the life of a tree.

Planting Technique !!!!!

Here are the basics steps for planting your tree "pedestal style" as shown in the demonstration.

Before you dig, make sure that the spot you've chosen for your tree does not have any underground lines that would endanger you while planting.
A common mistake when planting a tree is to simply dig a large hole and add amended soil into the hole. This tends to cause a "container effect" on the tree's roots as they grow to the edge of the amended soil then begin girdling around the perimeter of the space. This can ultimately lead to the tree falling over in a high wind because the tree hasn't been able to properly anchor itself with its roots. A better technique is to break up or cultivate the soil in a circular area around the location where the tree is to be planted. First, dig a whole that's the depth and diameter of the plant's container. Remove and discard grass and weeds from the planting site. Then break up and the soil around the hole so that it's loose.

Loosen the Root Ball!!!!

Prepare the root ball for planting

With the hole dug and the soil around the hole thoroughly cultivated, carefully remove the tree's root ball from its container, and using your hands, gently loosen any outside roots from the sides and bottom, taking care not to break or damage the root ball

Place the Tree!!!!!

Place the root ball in the center of the hole.

Place the tree in the center of the hole on the undisturbed pedestal so the root crown (where the trunk meets the roots) is about 1-1/2 to 2 inches above the surrounding ground level.

Remove the Stakes!!!!!

 If your tree came tied to a nursery stake, remove the stake.

If your tree came tied to a nursery stake, remove the stake. Another common mistake, according to Beeler, is over-staking trees. If your tree is sturdy enough to hold itself upright, do not re-stake it. If the tree needs help to stand upright, use two stakes and ties. Place the stakes on opposite sides of the tree, planted outside the area you just cultivated, approximately 18 inches from the trunk. Place tree tape loosely around the trunk and attached to the stakes with ties. The ties should be loose enough to allow the tree to move back and forth slightly in high wind.
Backfill the hole with the soil you removed. Discard any grass and weeds from the soil. Do not add soil amendments.

Finishing Touches!!!!

Finish backfilling the hole, but remember not to cover the top of the root ball, which is the root crown stake.

Create a circular berm around the base of the tree to help contain water and channel it to the tree's roots.
Water thoroughly right after planting, soaking the planting area. This will help get the roots established and settle the soil
Spread mulch or wood chips about 6 inches deep over the entire planting area, leaving a bare 4- to 6-inch area directly around the trunk.
If you did have to stake your tree, periodically check the stakes and ties to ensure that they are not harming the trunk or branches. The tree should be able to stand on its own after one year.
Tree Survival Tips: What to Avoid
Here are two of the more common situations that cause newly planted tree saplings not to survive--and tips for avoiding each problem.
Drowning. Check root moisture for newly planted trees. Don't be fooled by surface soil conditions: check the soil 4 to 6 inches deep. The soil should be moist, not soggy. One effective means for watering, and one which wastes less water than using sprinklers, is to place the end of hose against the trunk and let the water drip all day or night.
Suffocation. Avoid planting too deeply. The root crown (where trunk meets the roots) should be 1-1/2 inches to 2 inches above ground level.