What is Organic Gardening - The Basics for Gardening Organically

Question: What is Organic Gardening - The Basics for Gardening Organically?

What does it mean to have an organic garden? Does organic gardening mean you have to put up with insects eating your plants or unattractive flower beds? 

Answer: The short answer is that organic gardening means not using synthetic products, including pesticides and fertilizers. Ideally, organic gardening replenishes the resources as it makes use of them. Like feeding depleted soil with composted plants, or planting legumes to add nitrogen to an area that had been planted with heavy feeder. The bigger picture involves working in cooperation with nature, viewing your garden as a small part of all the natural system.

Here are some basics to get you started with organic gardening:

What is Meant by Organic Matter?

Organic matter is decaying plant and animal waste. It includes everything from compost, grass clipping, dried leaves and kitchen scraps to manures and fish heads. Organic matter is used as a soil amendment or conditioner. It can be worked into the soil of a new garden or used as a top dressing or mulch in an existing garden.

What's so Important About the Soil?

One of the basic tenants of organic gardening is to "Feed the soil and the soil will feed the plants". It's really common sense. Plants get water, air and nutrients from the soil. Clay soil is higher in nutrients than sand and hold water better. Sometimes it holds water too well and the plants can't get enough air. Sandy soil is well drained, but can use some amending to make it great garden soil. This is where organic matter comes into play. Adding organic matter improves any soil's texture as well as attracting soil organisms that create nutrients in the soil.

How Do You Control Pests and Diseases without Chemicals?

Organic gardening doesn't mean you have to share your apples with the worms, but you will probably have less than pristine looking plants and produce. Since you are trying to garden in cooperation with nature, sometimes you have to accept the occasional pest in the garden. Your first line of defense should be vigilance. Inspect your plants regularly for signs of a problem and take action quickly. Keep in mind that not every insect is a foe and that action doesn't necessarily mean pesticide.

• There are many organic pesticides available, but first make certain that there is a problem and that you know what it is. You can live with a little damage. Some insects, like the 4-lined plant bug, do their damage and then move on for the season.
• Consider if you are having a pest problem because your plants are stressed and don't have the resources to defend themselves.
• Interplanting and diversity will protect you from losing an entire crop to an infestation. Large swaths of a single plant are pretty, but are also a landing strip for interested insects.
• Many insects and larger animals are considered beneficial, preying on the insect pests. Reaching for the spray can every time you see a pest, you will be killing of the beneficials too. Lady bugs and parasitic wasps enjoy an aphid banquet. Birds will munch on grubs. Frogs, lizards and even snakes all contribute to the balance in your garden and prevent a pest population from becoming a problem.
  
• Barriers prevent problems. Floating row covers prevent moths from landing and laying eggs. Yellow sticky traps can easily catch dozens of flying pests. Foil collars around the base of plants will foil cut worms and many borers.
• There will probably come a time when you will need to apply a pesticide or lose your plants. Organic or natural pesticides can be very effective and are usually less toxic to wildlife, pets and humans than synthetic pesticides. Many organic controls can target specific problems, such as using Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), a type of bacteria, that kills caterpillars, but not much else. Just be sure that you know what the problem is before you treat it and that you always follow the label instructions.

What Else Is Involved in Gardening Cooperatively with Nature?

There are many elements that can contribute to a healthy garden climate.

• Select plants that are suited to your site conditions. Plants that are happy with their growing conditions will be healthier than plants that are stressed. Stressed plants are very attractive to pests. Don't choose plants that require full sun if you live in a shady woodland. Similarly, don't select plants that like a moist environment if you have sandy soil and lots of sunshine.
• Mulching your garden beds serves multiple purposes. Mulch suppresses weeds, conserves water, moderates soil temperature, feeds the soil, prevents erosion and is attractive to boot.
• As mentioned above, create diversity in your garden. A mix of plants will attract more beneficial insects and prevent a problem from spreading throughout your garden.
• Most importantly, get to know your plants so that you will notice if a problem is manifesting Nature is cyclical and learning the seasonal changes your plant will go through can help you anticipate problems. Organic gardening is a constantly evolving dance that allows you to be a full participant in your garden.

How to Compost and the Different Types of Compost Bins

Learn about the different types of compost bins and what household items can be composted!!!!

Composting is the natural breakdown of organic matter to produce a crumbly nutrient-rich soil. The resulting compost can be added to other soil types as a fertilizer, forming an excellent growing medium for plants. By managing this natural process in your own garden, you can dispose of waste, and produce an agent that will improve the look and yield of any plants and flowers. Regardless of the size of your outdoor space, there will be a composting solution to suit your needs.

Making Compost!!!

Theories vary on how to produce the perfect compost, but there are some general rules. Firstly, a suitable container or store is required. Different types and designs are shown here, including homemade, shop-bought, and recycled varieties. As the natural process of composting generates heat, storing compost in a container enables the heat to be retained more easily, and allows for the efficient breakdown of material. It is best to keep a compost heap covered to retain this heat, and to prevent rain from making the compost too wet. While some moisture is needed, it is usually supplied in the form of moist grass cuttings and other green waste

Building Up Layers!!!!

A system of layering different materials will aid the composting process and enhance the finished product. A layer of coarser, more fibrous material, for example, will introduce air to the center of the heap, which is vital as composting is an aerobic process. However, this may not always be a straightforward task. In the height of summer, for example, the majority of layers are likely to be grass clippings, so it is important to make sure you break up large amounts of one material with other layers—perhaps from the kitchen.
The process of composting takes between two and nine months. You will need to gain access to the base of the heap to take out the crumbly, fully decomposed compost for use on the garden. Some containers have an access hatch at the bottom of the container, while others may need one side to be disassembled so that the bottom level of compost can be dug out.
Slatted bins are great for gaining access to the bottom of the heap. The sides are easily disassembled, and the compost is normally integrated enough not to spill out (image below).

The Different Types of Bins!!!!

Purpose-built plastic bins are fitted with a hatch at the bottom for easy access of composted material (image 1). A slatted wooden bin encourages greater air circulation, improving the ventilation of the heap (image 2). A wooden sectioned bin can be disassembled in layers, allowing the heap height to be raised or lowered as required (image 3). As well as looking attractive, a hurdle-style compost bin offers good ventilation. The heap is accessed by removing one side (image 4). A concrete bin may have a block or slatted structure. Unlike its wooden alternatives, it will not rot (image 5). Large recycled containers, such as those used to deliver building materials, make ideal compost bins (image 6).

Wormeries!!!!

A wormery performs the same task as a compost heap, but on a smaller scale. Worms are kept inside a suitable container, where they eat organic matter; their waste products are then used as a fertilizer. Tiger worms are best for the job, as they live and feed on decomposing compost (unlike common earthworms, which prefer to burrow in soil). You can make your own wormery, or buy a kit that comes with a supply of tiger worms.Composting is the natural breakdown of organic matter to produce a crumbly nutrient-rich soil. The resulting compost can be added to other soil types as a fertilizer, forming an excellent growing medium for plants. By managing this natural process in your own garden, you can dispose of waste, and produce an agent that will improve the look and yield of any plants and flowers. Regardless of the size of your outdoor space, there will be a composting solution to suit your needs.Theories vary on how to produce the perfect compost, but there are some general rules. Firstly, a suitable container or store is required. There are different types and designs, including homemade, shop-bought and recycled varieties. As the natural process of composting generates heat, storing compost in a container enables the heat to be retained more easily, and allows for the efficient breakdown of material. It is best to keep a compost heap covered to retain this heat, and to prevent rain from making the compost too wet. While some moisture is needed, it is usually supplied in the form of moist grass cuttings and other green waste.

Materials That Can Be Composted

The complete list of items that can be composted is extensive, but it can be categorized generally as either brown waste or green waste. Although all organic matter will compost, it is advisable not to compost items that may attract vermin or disease.

Green Waste Items for Composting

As the name suggests, this category includes all types of green leafy garden waste. Other types of fast-rotting waste material is also included in this group. All these items have a high nitrogen content
Example Ingredients:

• Fresh grass clippings are a plentiful summer supply and should be layered with other items.
• Flowers - stems should be chopped up; don't use diseased plants.
• Nettles act as good natural activators.
• Vegetable and fruit peelings can be added straight to the heap from the kitchen.
• Vegetable crop residue, such as potato and tomato plants.
• Young weeds, but avoid perennials.
• Herbivore manure, such as from horses, cows and rabbits.
• Tea leaves, but tea bags will take longer to break down.

Brown Waste for Composting

This category refers to the slower-rotting items that have a high carbon content.
Example Ingredients:

• Dead or fallen leaves - use only small amounts
• Shredded paper
• Coffee grounds and filter - use only paper filters
• Cardboard torn into small pieces
• Woody hedge clippings and twigs ideally put through a shredder
• Sawdust mixed well with more aerated material
• Herbivore bedding, such as hay and straw

Other Items for Composting

There are a number of other items that are not immediately obvious candidates for composting but that are nevertheless suitable.
Example Ingredients:

• Egg shells washed and crushed up
• Hair - either human or animal hair since both are high in nitrogen
• 100 percent wool or cotton cut into small pieces or tumble-dryer lint
• Vacuum-bag contents, but use common sense as to what has been picked up
• Wood ash in small quantities

Items Not to Compost

Although all organic material breaks down, avoid the following as they may attract vermin and harbor potential pathogens:

• Meat and fish (cooked and raw) can harbor disease and attract vermin.
• Dog and cat feces can harbor disease.
• Cat litter will normally contain feces.
• Glossy magazines contain too many inorganic chemicals.
• Barbecue coals and coal ash contain harmful sulphur oxides

Mulch Matters!!!!

Trees, shrubs and plants could vote on what covers their feet, it would be mulch every time. Not only do mulches dramatically reduce evaporation of water from the soil surface, but by reducing weeds they help prevent competition for water. As a result, soil moisture stays more constant and roots grow better.

Organic mulches save a bit more water than stone mulches, but just about all mulches do a good job. And almost any soil cover is better than none at all.

 

On bare soil, two-thirds of the water we applied was lost through evaporation. "When the soil was mulched, only 10 percent of the water was lost from evaporation." We recommends using a mulch that has both large and small pieces so that it will receive water well and also won't easily float or blow away. Use mulch on potted plants too.

So mulch is good. But what kind of mulch? And how much?

Organic or Inorganic?

The Anasazi Indians in the ancient Southwest successfully gardened in arid land, thanks to the gravel and rocks they placed on the soil's surface. Inorganic mulches--rocks, gravel, marble, brick chips--conserve water and shade the soil, but they don't improve it.

Use those mulches in fixed landscape beds that you don't plan on redigging and replant-ing. Small gravels migrate easily, working their way down into the soil. Even fairly large rock or brick nuggets can wash or get kicked out of their landscape beds.

No matter what kind of soil you have, an organic mulch is bound to eventually improve it, even if it never gets turned in. "Organic matter is the magic elixir"

"It does good things for poor soils of almost any type. If the mulch stays on top, the change will happen more slowly, but earthworms and microorganisms will slowly break it down and mix it in. And of course every time you disturb the bed in any way, such as when you're planting annuals, it happens much faster."
Organic mulch adds fertility to sandy soils and helps hold water and nutrients; it loosens and helps drain heavy clay soils; it adds micronutrients that might be missing from even a good garden loam.
The organic mulches highest in lignin--an organic compound in woody plants--take the longest to break down. Bark has more lignin than wood, so bark mulches last longer than wood mulches. Cypress and pine straw last almost as long as pine bark.
 
Also, the faster the mulch percolates water and the drier it stays, the longer it lasts. "Pine-bark nuggets will last a long time,"."There's a lot of air space between the nuggets, and the microorganisms don't have enough moisture to break them down."
Dark or Light?
Mulch cools the soil by either absorbing heat from the sun and not transferring it to the soil (dark organic mulch, such as bark and wood) or reflecting the heat (light mulch, such as rocks or light-colored woods) so that it's not passed down to the soil below. In most cases that's good, because overheated roots don't have to work so hard.

In very hot or sunny areas, however, the heat radiated from the mulch can do a number on sensitive plants. Roger Kjelgren, associate professor of urban horticulture at Utah State University in Logan, has found that on a summer day dark-bark mulches can reach temperatures of 140 to 150 degrees F--hotter than asphalt. Since heat rises, that means plants can shut down and stop growing. The plants most prone to suffer? Those with large leaves and any that prefer partial shade or that can't tolerate heat.
"It depends on the extent of the mulch area," says Kjelgren. "In a large area of mulch, putting an oakleaf hydrangea out there would probably fry it. Over time, as the plants that do well establish sufficient cover, the mulch becomes shaded."
So if you're planning to use bark mulch in a sunny bed, make sure the plants are heat tolerant. This is especially important if the mulched area is large and the plants are young and small. Most inorganic mulches don't get as hot because they transfer some heat to the soil below. The exception--lava rocks--heat up almost as much as bark mulch.
Remember, too, that as winter approaches, a sunny day could interfere with the plant's adjustment to cold. Dark mulch can absorb the heat during the day and release it at night, which may interfere with the plant's adjusting to cold winter temperatures.
How Should It Smell?
If you're buying mulch from large piles that may not have been turned in a while, make sure you give it a sniff test first. Good mulch has a clean smell like fresh-cut wood or soil. The odor of vinegar, ammonia, rotten eggs or silage means that the mulch has gone sour--a toxic condition that results from too much moisture and too little oxygen. Sour mulch can seriously damage and even kill plants within 24 hours after application.

Can Mulch Change Soil pH?
Most people believe that mulches like pine straw and pine bark will turn the soil acid below. Actually, that's true only some of the time. Some soils--such as clay and those with plenty of organic matter--are extremely resistant to change. Many studies have shown little or no effect on soil pH, even with pine straw on an already acid soil. "If you've got a material that's acid or alkaline "it will probably have a bit more impact on sandy soil than on a clay soil

How Much Is Too Much?
You can easily suffocate a plant by mulching too deeply. The same goes for laying any impermeable cover--such as plastic or several layers of cardboard--that doesn't allow the soil to breathe."If you keep gas exchange from happening, that's where you run into trouble. You stick your finger under there, and you've got a swamp. It smells sour, and there's anaerobic activity. That's when you get into root problems."
The less porous and more compactable the mulch, the thinner you spread it: for very finely shredded hardwood, no more than two to three inches deep; coarse nuggets, three to five inches; loose straw, up to six inches deep for wintertime protection of sensitive plants. Top off aging or discolored mulch with a minimum of new material
How Close Should I Mulch?
Don't give wood borers and other insects easy access to your trees, shrubs and herbaceous plants: leave a space of eight inches between mulch and tree trunks or tender stems. Also be sure to keep wood products (and possibly termites) away from your home's foundations.
Is It OK to Use Sawdust?
Sawdust is fine to use as a mulch as long as it's aged and composted first to get rid of heat buildup. Because it ties up nitrogen at the soil surface, don't use sawdust around heavy feeders and plants that have roots close to the surface.
But you also have to know its origins, "Does it come from treated wood? If so, some of the preservatives are toxic and also have the potential to leach. Also, is there any black walnut or other material harmful to plants?"
How to tell if it's aged enough? "It will look discolored, more amorphous and more humusy. You might still be able to recognize it as sawdust, but it looks very much degraded." Cypress and redwood sawdust degrade very slowly.